And yet market sales are up by nearly 17% in the last year, and revenue from “fine wine” sales have grown by as much as 40%. The statistics tell a conflicting story: Millennials are spending less on wine, and if the industry fails to attract younger drinkers, sales could plummet by 20% in the next decade. Welcome to the meme-ification of natural wine.
But…haven’t I scrolled past this meme before? One cannot duck into an old favorite bar in Los Angeles these days, the sort of pubby-clubby place where one might order a beer and a shot, without being confronted by a new menu subsection designated in bold font, with extra exclamation points: NATURAL WINE!!! You might ask the bartender to tell you more, as I did-when did these wines join the menu? Was there one to recommend? Is it starting to feel like the same conversation is being had about wine right now, over and over again? Natural wine culture in America is ascendent, remaking the way a generation drinks and sells wine in a meaningful way. Was it the sparkling piquette or the sparkling pét-nat or the one with the cartoon animal on the label-a bear, I think, or some other large hulking beast, no doubt? It featured pastel pinks and smokey oranges, to match the utterly natural wine within, made from a grape you’ve never heard of, in a bar with throbbing music on vintage speakers and a lot of Throwing Fits–looking dudes standing around, holding their stemware from the base and checking their phones.
Are you familiar with the phenomenon of déjà vin? It is the profound and inexplicable certainty that you keep seeing the same bottles of wine everywhere you go, in every little Instagrammy bar and bistro in America.ĭidn’t we drink this bottle at The Glou Factory, no wait, was it Glou Glou, or Glou Bar, or Natural Inclinations, or I think with your friends at Stuck Like Glou (from the people behind Huffing Glou), which is next to Maisøn de Tinned Fish-I get them all confused.
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